Portuguese Sweet Bread

In some areas of the country, not here of course, this bread is called Hawaiian bread, but even then most of the time Hawaiian's give credit to the Portuguese for this big, soft, sweet, round pillow of a loaf. I cannot imagine making a sandwhich from this bread, but according to the text it's a very popular bread to do so. The distintive aspect of this bread, besides the lemon and orange extracts is the flavor the powdered-milk imparts. I can't say I tasted the powdered-milk, but the extracts made this bread wonderful.

This was a fun bread to make because of all the stages the bread went through. It started in the morning with a sponge, which had to be equal parts flour, water, and then sugar and instant yeast. It's mixed, and you wait until it's bubbly and will fall when touched. After the sponge is ready the butter, shortening, eggs, sugar and extracts are creamed. After this first frosting type is created, it's mixed with the sponge and the remaining flour.

Because of the high amounts of fat and sugar, the gluten takes a while to form. I had to let the dough sit and rise for 2hours before I divided and formed into boules. The boules are put into pie plates and given another 2-3 hours to rise. I instead let the loaves retard overnight, and Sunday morning pulled out the loaves for a good 5 hours. The loaves did get larger, but didn't fill the plates like the book described. After the rising, and egg wash, the loaves baked up and turned out perfectly and almost exactly like the picture in the book. The bread tasted wonderful. I don't know that I would make a sandwhich out of it. It just seems too good to enjoy as a sandwhich.

Panettone

Panettone is a rich (fat included, with also other ingredients) Christmas bread originating from Milan. There are many folktales about its origins, the most popular being that it was created a few hundred years ago by a humble baker named Tony to woo his beloved, the daughter of a rich merchant. More importantly, he had to win over the father to the idea of his daughter marrying a baker, so he pulled out all the stops, filling his bread with the baker’s equivalent of the gifts of the wise men, Butter, Brandied fruits and nuts and sugar. The merchant was so impressed that he not only gave his daughter in marriage, but he also Tony up with his own bakery in Milan with the promise that he would continue to make his pane Tony.

This was a difficult bread to make. It took almost two weeks to make the barm (a sour dough starter) and another day to soak the dried fruit in brandy (not a good brandy mind you) and another day to let the sponge soak overnight. Man, this was a wet bread and after mixing it, found that it took a ton more flour than it called for, but that didn’t surprise me considering the dried fruit was still moist. I decided to have fun with this one and eliminate the candied fruit because quite honestly, I can’t stand the taste. I just went with the dried fruit of plums, Turkish apricots, craisins, raisins, and dates. There were many options for shaping this, and the traditional calls for tall paper cups that the dough rise up, but small loaves and even muffins were suggested.

Pane Siciliano

Dang, did this one take a long time to make. Well, not in the literal sense of days to create the bread, but rather to procure the ingredients to make this bread. I hope it’s worth it. People at work have been putting up with the same bread for three weeks, just shaped differently.

The reason it took so long was getting the semolina flour. On one day I traveled to no more than 4 grocery stores, including two health food stores. I found all sorts of odd flours, for example; almond flour, cashew flour, and bean flour. But nowhere was semolina flour to be found. I thought it would be easy; after all, this is what you use to make homemade noodles. I searched on the Inter-world-wide-webs and found some Bob’s Red Mill, and order up some. It seemed a little pricey, but where the heck was I going to fine some of this, right?

When it finally arrived on Friday, I realized why it was so pricey. I must not have read the description that great since a whole display box and 5 individual 24oz bags arrived. Oh well, I guess I’ll be making a lot of homemade noodles.

This bread is described as enriched, which if you remember means fat, standard dough, indirect (pre-ferment) and commercial yeast (as opposed to wild.) The technique and bread combines large portions of pre-ferment and overnight fermentation. Semolina is the gritty, sandy flour milled from durum wheat. It’s a hard high-protein wheat, but not high in gluten. The golden color is mainly due to a high proportion of beta-carotene. This version consists of 40% semolina and 60% high gluten bread flour, which I didn’t have, so I just used bread flour.

I used the last shaping technique of the series by doing the ‘S.’ The finished loaf has a beautiful blistered crust, not too crackly and a crumb with large, irregular holes, open to the same degree as a good French or Italian. This bread quickly doubled in size and turned out looking perfect. I knew I shouldn’t have added the sesame seeds. They are just too messy and in my opinion don’t add that much in flavor.

Pain de Campagne

Another one of the rustic breads, simple and easy to shape, this week’s bread is intended to be shaped. There were so many to choose from and I was very excited to try some of the different techniques out. This dough is similar to the regular French baguette from last week, but it includes a small percentage of whole grain. The additional grain gives the bread more character and flavor, and contributes to the brownish-gold, country-style crust that distinguishes it from the white flour counterpart.

I had a number of choices to shape the dough, and I was anxious to try the epi or wheat sheaf. It looked fun to create a baguette in the shape of some wheat stalks, and I get to use scissors. However my technique proved to be lacking and I had to resort to youtube to see the actually shaping techniques. I should have kept it straight and cut along the face of the bread itself. Instead I just cut at the 45 degree angle from the side. I also used a suggested cutting technique on the boule shape here. It was fun and I think I’ll be doing the epi shape again, especially for a party since it does look good and acts like a pull-a-part bread.

Pain a l’Ancienne

We now turn to the rustic breads. By rustic I mean simple, lean and very basic to make. It is one of the basics that many others coming up will be derived from. This first is your classic French baguette recipe and pretty much turned out exactly how it was supposed to.

I wish I had read the book ahead of time as I was supposed to retard the dough overnight. Oh well, people at work got some on Tuesday instead of Monday. This delayed fermentation uses ice cold water and a very slack dough. This larger hydration ratio uses the water to break down the flour even further into sugar, to dig at the natural sweetness that remain in breads using standard fermentation techniques.

From this basic recipe I can make Ciabatta, pizza, focaccia, pugliese, stirato, and pain rustique. The bread was sweeter than a standard French bread, and had a great chewy crust. I think this was my favorite bread so far. I served it with oil and balsamic vinegar.

Next week – Pain de Campagne

Leeloo Dallas Mul-ti-grain

This week’s bread was a beautiful looking multi-grain. I was looking forward to this one as there was a call for things like wheat bran, millet, rolled oats, buckwheat and quinoa. Many of those ingredients were much like a choose your own adventure, except in this case when you turn to page 32 you get a delicious bread and not eaten by a dragon.

I have adapted some of the previous techniques this week to aid with the loaf development. The dough started with a soaker, where the night before I soaked the polenta, wheat bran and buckwheat in water. I chose buckwheat only because I haven’t worked with it before. The polenta used the same method as the Anadama bread, so I knew it had to soak for a long time to get the corn soft. What was unique about this bread was after using the indirect dough is that it also called for some cooked brown rice. The rice I am sure was used for the extra starch to offset the fiber from the other types of wheat introduced.

With the use of brown sugar and honey, this bread colored up very nicely and I am told will make a great toast. Being an enriched dough it of course called for fat, this time in the form of butter milk. Since I didn’t have any buttermilk I had to use the old method of skim milk and lemon juice to get the fat out.

Next week: Pain a l’Ancienne (don’t ask I have no idea what that is)

He Stole My Marbled Rye!

How could I not quote that famous Seinfeld episode? I was anxious to make this bread as it calls for a little more artistic flare than the standard wheat bread. Well, not too artistic, but I did have to make two separate doughs and combine them together to form the spiral.

The rye has a great smell, and even better taste with the caraway seeds. I’m thinking that when I make my corned beef I’ll have to make a couple loaves of this bread to go with it. In this session of bread making I had to ensure that both doughs were of the same consistency and texture. I suppose I should have read more details on this bread, as it seems it could have gone wrong.

I did mix it for the 4 minutes it suggested, but I have been known to go longer. With rye flour, the type of gums in the flour interferes with gluten development. With a slight overmixing (if I had done, but I didn’t) the dough would have gummed up and become too tough to rise. It was good then I let it be a slight bit tacky when it was done.In order to get the dark coloring for the dark rye, the recipe called for either caramel coloring or cocoa powder. Since I could not find any coloring, I went with the powder. I was a little skeptical since the cocoa made the bread smell, well, like cocoa. But after baking, I couldn’t tell it was there, and it photographed very nicely.